Tuesday, September 30, 2008

A Few Perfume Industry Secrets ... And What You Need to Know

The perfume industry makes the CIA look like an open book. The world of perfume is big business, but it's a business built on preferences, noses, tastes, and the ability to protect your formulas.

There is no legal protection for a perfume formula. If I mix a bunch of ingredients and come up with a wonderful perfume, anybody who can figure out my recipe is free to market the perfume. In fact, there is a mini-industry of chemists doing just like that and selling drug store scents called "Smells Like White Diamonds" or "Smells like Eternity."

To protect formulas, perfume experts rely on one ancient and one modern technique. The ancient technique is secrecy. You could probably get the formula for Coca-Cola more easily than you could dig up the ingredients for a hot new scent. "Noses," the people who invent the scents, work in secrecy and often lead extremely low-profile lives despite the fact that they are highly sought after professionals.

Another secret of the perfume industry is a pretty "open secret." It's obvious to most perfumistas, and it ought to be obvious to people who buy perfume, even if they don't really think about it much. Here it is: The people who attach their names to the perfume are not the ones who invent it.

Coco Chanel did not concoct her legendary No. 5 in a Paris apartment; it was concocted in the 1920s by one of the world's great "noses," a Russian living in Paris by the name of Ernst Breaux. Celebrity perfumes today may be created with minimal to moderate involvement of their spokespeople, but the real creation of the scent is done by someone else. What this means is that when you buy a scent by J Lo or Beyonce or Liz Taylor or Paris Hilton, you are purchasing a product they agreed to endorse. So don't be too overawed by a celebrity on the label.

Good old-fashioned secrecy about perfume formulas still works great in the perfume industry, but that does not stop copycats from trying to steal the formulas. The modern technique to help prevent perfume piracy is making the perfumes incredibly complicated.

Even back in the 1920s, this was done with scents like Chanel No. 5, Youth Dew, and Evening in Paris, in that they used dozens of ingredients in precise proportions. Even if you could figure out what most of the ingredients were (and Chanel No. 5 has over 100), you could spend a lifetime in the lab experimenting to get the proper balance.

Perfumes today are so extremely complex that it's hard to copy them.

There are two types of perfume copycat. The first is the legal type. The method is simple: identify a popular perfume and then create a much-cheaper imitation of it. It may or may not be a good imitation, but it's at least in the ballpark. They then package their product in a plain box and advertise it as a scent that "smells like X perfume."

This is legal, but it's really not a good thing. First of all, it probably does smell vaguely like the original, but it is doubtful that a "nose" who could steal the exact recipe for a perfume would work for one of these copycat labs. You're dealing with an approximation, and that's on the best day.

Second, this kind of "smells-like" scent is marketed entirely on price; they are the bargain fragrances. This means you can expect a lot less fragrance and a lot more alcohol, smaller sized bottles, and all round cheaper development and production. Most people I know who have tried a copycat product are disappointed because it just doesn't measure up to the real thing in terms of quality.

The other kind of perfume pirate is a counterfeit producer. These guys not only create imitation perfumes, they put them in original or "forged" bottles and packaging and try to pass them off as the real thing. What they're trying to do is counterfeit an original and still be able to sell it for significantly less (price is the only drawing card for these guys).

Don't count on this stuff for purity, high production standards, or not getting you in trouble. Yes, you can get in trouble if you purchase counterfeit merchandise. Besides, these guys are stealing a legitimate product and trying to pass it off as their own. Don't get mixed up in that.

Of course, many would-be perfume lovers find the cost of their perfume habit prohibitively expensive. However, there are lots of good reasons to stick to the real deal. Perfume manufacturers put their reputation into every bottle; they tend to manufacture smooth scents, nuanced, with top-quality ingredients, carefully packaged, and delivered safely to market (particularly online). Knockoffs and counterfeits are out to make a profit on a cheaper product; these guys cut corners (and not always in places you can see) because their goal is to create a cheaper (not better) product. From missing or substandard ingredients to weaker solutions, higher alcohol content, and dubious marketing, the knockoffs are really just out for your money and the counterfeits are thieves.

Copycat perfumes are often less "textured" and subtle than the real thing. While some people might not notice much difference, perfumistas can often take one whiff and distinguish a knockoff from the real perfume.

The real thing will also have more "depth" to it and the blending will create a scent that lasts longer on your skin. Buy perfume from reputable places, which includes major department stores, perfume stores (if you're lucky enough to have them in your area), or online websites with solid reputations or the website of the manufacturer or designer. If you have even the slightest doubts that your perfume may be counterfeit, examine the packaging. This is one area where counterfeiters become obviously sloppy.

Finally, remember that perfume is a luxury and luxuries are not supposed to be two for a buck in the discount house.

from: MyDailyPerfume.com

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3 Tips on Choosing the Right Perfume for You

With the thousands of fragrances in the market, it can sometimes be tricky to choose the one that is perfect for your taste, personality, the occasion, and other factors. Check out the following basic tips that you may find useful when choosing and even wearing the perfect perfume for you.

1. Determine your budget.

Perfumes are priced in a very big range, from very inexpensive colognes to luxurious designer brands. Determining your budget or the money you are prepared to spend beforehand will help narrow down the choices and will save you a lot of time.

2. Know what particular smell you want and go for it.

Decide on what type of fragrance you want based on what use the perfume would be to you. For instance, is it for special occasions? Is it to please or seduce a lover? Is it for everyday wash and wear? If you plan to please someone, make sure to research on the particular fragrances he or she likes. If you want it to be an everyday whiff you can wear to work or school, you may want to buy a lighter and fresher scent. If it’s for big parties and formal events, choose a perfume that makes a stronger impact by blending well with your body chemistry.

Other factors like the weather or season are also important to consider. For instance, if you live in a very humid setting, floral fragrances with a woody or musky base often complement the sultry weather. If you’re often surrounded by a lot of people in near proximity, don’t choose a very strong perfume because not everyone likes perfume. Citrus, sea breeze and other herb and floral fragrances are often fresh and rejuvenating, perfect for someone always on the go. If you will be out on a date and want to heighten the romance, choose a scent that is a bit stronger but not overpowering. Usually oriental spices project confidence and sophistication. Meanwhile, aromatic blends are perfect for men who like to smell like a true man exuding with machismo and security.

3. Examine carefully before buying.

When you’ve finally narrowed down your choices and you’re ready to go to a perfume shop, don’t forget to carefully examine each perfume you fancy before getting ahead of yourself and purchasing. Take note that your nose can only handle so much and testing 20 perfumes consecutively will prove to be futile. Before you start spraying a perfume on your wrist, spray it first on a card or paper and decide if you like it. If not, move on to the next. Once you find a scent you think is perfect, start testing it on your body. Apply a small amount on your wrist or at the back of your arm. Sometimes the saleslady will offer to apply some in her own skin and have you smell it. This is a no-no because each of us reacts to perfumes in different ways. Make sure the perfume is perfect for you by putting it on your own skin. Wait for a few minutes because fragrances start to grow on you and smell different after a while.

from: MyDailyPerfume.com

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